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A 76-year-old woman, a social entrepreneur who opened a restaurant providing jobs for prisoners, conquering the recognition of "the most successful woman in the restaurant industry".

Text by Mika Hisatani

Silvia Polleri, founder of "In Galera", a restaurant inside the prison, states: "Our project is not charity at all. What is needed here is to offer real work". They never ask about the criminal records of the prisoners working in the prison.

Silvia Polleri, founder of "In Galera", a restaurant inside the Bollate prison in Milan, was selected in March 2026 as one of the 15 most influential women in the food and beverage sector as part of "Women in Food 2026", an event organized by the Italian national newspaper Corriere della Sera.

In Galera, awarded by several guides, including the 2026 edition of the Michelin Guide Italy, celebrated its tenth anniversary in 2025 and has already welcomed over 200,000 customers. Poleri, head of the social cooperative "ABC La Sapienza in Tavola" that made the restaurant possible, has had a passion for cooking since childhood and ran a catering business in Milan. Building on this experience, she created a system in which prisoners can use food as a tool to integrate into the workforce after release. The goal is to offer concrete rehabilitation opportunities for social reintegration during detention and to dispel social prejudices against prisoners.

"I wanted to challenge, in a positive sense, the preconceptions that many people have when they hear about a 'rehabilitation project for prisoners,'" says Polreri with a smile. Despite her 76 years, Polreri continues to work on the front lines with an energy and determination that belies her age.

The New York Times described In Galera as "a restaurant whose success is harder to imagine, and an even more intriguing example of a rehabilitation project for former prisoners." In Italy, a documentary about it was distributed nationally, and it is now considered one of the must-visit restaurants at least once during a trip to Milan.

Currently, four prisoners work in the kitchen and dining room of the restaurant, running a fully-fledged catering business.

The most distinctive feature of In Galera is that prisoners are responsible for preparing and serving meals under the supervision of professional chefs and managers. It is not just a simple "work experience," but a real practical employment opportunity aimed at social reintegration after release. Prisoners who work there receive a salary, just like prisoners in the general population.

Since its opening in 2000, the Bollate prison has prioritized "social reintegration" over "punishment" in its activities. Recognized as a pioneering example of rehabilitation programs in Italy, "In Galera" is an emblematic initiative of this philosophy.

The restaurant requires advance booking, but anyone can access it by presenting an identity document. After security checks, including identity verification at the prison entrance, the staff escorts guests to the restaurant located on the first floor of the facility. What opens beyond the door is an environment that seems almost unreal. In the 50-seat dining room, a wide selection of wines is displayed in plain view, and the tables, carefully set, are arranged with soft lighting. Many of the patrons belong to the Milanese elite and wear formal attire.

What they offer is authentic cuisine that goes beyond the typical concept of a "socially responsible restaurant." You can enjoy seasonal menus based on local ingredients, paired with wines selected by a sommelier. Entering this sophisticated space, one forgets that they are in a prison, and everyone is enveloped by a unique sensation.

The wine list includes about 150 different Italian wines.

White fish carpaccio with pistachio sauce.

Crab linguine.

It has been reported that this prison has a significantly lower recidivism rate among inmates who participate in vocational training and employment programs compared to other correctional facilities. In Galera, a powerful embodiment of the philosophy of "supporting rehabilitation through food”, continues to promote Polleri's philosophy of "dignity," "value of work," and "discreet luxury", qualities that everyone should possess, continues to be conveyed through high-quality cuisine.

The Bollate prison is known among the Italian media and scholars as the "Miracle of Bollate" due to the extent of its successes. The reason for this "miracle" lies in its low recidivism rate.

Editorial Note: This article has been adapted and translated for the European audience.
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